Discover Sri Lanka

Suspended like a tear drop 1000 miles off the south-east coast of India, Sri Lanka aka the Pearl of the Indian Ocean was voted 2019 best country for travel by the Lonely Planet and it is easy to see why. Compile a wish list of everything you can think of in a holiday of your dreams, and chances are, Sri Lanka will have it in vat loads. 

First off, unlike its gargantuan northern neighbour, Sri Lanka is small, tiny in fact, just a quarter of the size of the UK, yet, within its 25,000 square miles, it ticks all the boxes for spectacular landscape; from rainforests to savannahs, majestic mountains to white beaches, stunning waterfalls to crystal seas.  

Discovered by the Portuguese and colonised by the Dutch then the British, Sri Lanka, a melting pot of race and religions, is rising from the ashes of a tumultuous recent past. It boasts an exotic cuisine with a coconut lean, ancient culture, wild adventure and…here’s the clincher: it is the only country in the world where it is possible to spot the largest sea mammal (blue whale) and the largest land mammal (elephant) in their natural habitats in the same day.

Colombo

There is only one entry point into Sri Lanka and that is by way of Bandaranaike International airport, 25 miles north of Colombo. Many travelers avoid Sri Lanka’s capital in favour of the abundant country wide attractions, if you have the time, though, it is worth allowing a day particularly if shopping is your thing. 

This cosmopolitan city of 5.6 million people is a shopper’s paradise. For a dose of crazy mayhem, try your bartering hand at Pettah outdoor market selling everything from rambutans to roller skates, alternatively, there are malls galore and department stores, teashops and jewellery depots full of sapphires, rubies and moonstones mined from Sri Lanka’s bountiful rocks. 

Travel by Train

For the best scenery, the most authentic taste of the country, and the thrill of unpredictability, travel by train where possible especially if you have plenty of time to factor in for delays, cancellations and general confusion. Built in 1864 by the British for transporting tea from the plantations to Colombo, these brightly coloured diesel trains have most of the country covered. The great thing about travelling on Sri Lanka’s trains is that you can hang out of the doors imbibing the fragrant air. At every station, there are treats a plenty courtesy of the street vendors who come on board selling juicy pineapple, cinnamon sprinkled mango, fresh rice and curry and hoppers, which are Sri Lanka’s famous bowl-shaped pancakes stuffed with eggs. 

Arguably, one of the most beautiful routes in the world, is the nine-hour train journey (timetable says six hours but add three) from Colombo to Kandy, the spiritual capital, home of the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (a gold and moonstone temple housing Buddha’s tooth) and on through misty forests to the tea plantations of Ella 

*Remember to book your tickets for this ride in advance and if possible, choose to travel in the Observation Saloon sitting on the right-hand side for the best views. 

Highlights of the Kandy to Ella trainline include stopping off at:

Hatton

Hop off at Hatton and take a bus to Dalhousie to climb Sri Lanka’s most sacred mountain, Sri Pada also known as Adam’s Peak. Best time to make this climb is at night in the Buddhist pilgrimage season between December and May for sunrise views from the 2000 metre summit. 

Another option is to head a short distance south from Hatton to Kitulgala, a small rainforest town lying at the entrance to the Kelnaiya Ganges rapids so popular for epic white water rafting as well as waterfall abseiling, advanced canyoning and caving in the Bellena Caves. 

Haputale

Trek through the tea country 45 minutes up a steep hill to Diyaluma Waterfall, one of Sri Lanka’s tallest falls at 220metres high and swim in the natural infinity pools. 

Ella

Sri Lanka is famous for its 300 million kg of Ceylon tea produced each year and where better to see it in all its unpicked glory than in the 1000-metre-high hillside village of Ella. This is the land of lush tea plantations, tea factories, tea shops, tea cabins, tea farms… so much to tea er see. One of the most popular hikes is up Ella Rock, through tea plantations and eucalyptus forests onto the breathtakingly beautiful cliff overlooking the town.

Dambulla

Head 55miles north of Kandy and you will come to the lesser known town of Dambulla. The main attraction here are the five cave temples filled with paintings and statues depicting the life of Buddha including the 45-foot statue of Buddha in repose. From Dambulla, you can head over to Minneriya National Park for an early morning elephant safari or climb Jathika Namal Uyana, Sri Lanka’s very rare pink quartz mountain. To up the ante on the adventure front, why not book yourself in for a hot air balloon available from Sun Rise Ballooning and sightsee from above.

Sigiriya aka Lion’s Rock (aka Lion’s Paw as that is all that is left)

Thirty minutes north of Dambulla and coined by locals as the eighth wonder of the world, this UNESCO protected rocky plateau sits 370 metres above sea level and houses the ruins of a palace, mirrored cave and fortress. Anyone with a head for heights and a fair level of fitness should consider giving the rock a climb as the views from the top are spectacular. 

To get to know Sirigiya beyond the lion, hire bikes and explore the local paddy farms, jungles and lakes. 

Gal Oya National Park 

Due to the civil war, Sri Lanka was off the tourist map for many years, meaning visitor numbers are not yet on a par with other worldwide tourist spots but, they are beginning to creep up. Not so, however, in Gal Oya National Park. This is one spot where you can genuinely believe you are the first (or last) tourist standing. For maximum silence and connection with nature, the best way to experience Gal Oya is by way of a boat safari. If feathered winged creatures were not your bag at the start of this trip, they will be by the end as thanks to your enthusiastic guide, you will be able to name every tropical bird that crosses your path. If you are lucky you will catch sight of elephants swimming in the bays, and if you are very, very lucky, you might just spot a crocodile. 

Galle (pronounced Gawl)

This old port city bursting with traditional charm does not get much of a look in amidst temples, teas and trains, but it provides a perfect taste of Sri Lanka as it once was. Expect to discover Dutch colonialism seamlessly blending with tropical jungle and a 300-year-old UNESCO world heritage fort rubbing well-tanned shoulders with the golden beach town of Unawatuna, one of the country’s top surfing spots. 

Mirissa

No trip to Sri Lanka is complete without blue whale, (fin whale, sperm whale) spotting, and the best place for experiencing this is off the coast of Mirissa. With blue whales measuring up to 30 metres long you will know if there is one in the close vicinity. Peak times for whale watching are December and April, avoid May to July as this is monsoon season and the waters are too rough. Make sure your trips out to sea are with reputable tour guides who understand whaling conventions and feel free to haggle on the cost. 

Know Before you Go

Dress Respectfully

Make sure you dress appropriately when visiting temples with knees and shoulders covered and shoes removed. Bikinis and swimwear are perfectly acceptable attire for beach resorts but Sri Lanka is a conservative country so remember to dress modestly elsewhere. 

Buddhist Full Moon Holidays

Otherwise known as Poya, these public holidays occur each month of the year and for practicing Buddhists are marked by a day of prayer and meditation. Expect shops to be shut. There is also a ban on sales of fish, meat and alcohol. Also, remember, no alcohol is to be consumed at all on Poya days. 

Go Local

When it comes to food, go local. Western food is hit and miss, while Sri Lankan fare is full of taste, flavor, authenticity and superiority. Expect everything you order to come with rice but what you get to accompany it varies greatly up and down the country. Don’t leave without trying a good dose of street food; 

Kotu roti mixed with shredded vegetables and meat and spices 

Or

The island’s comfort food of dhal curry, all washed down with a fresh cup of Ceylon tea (and lots of sugar to hide the quite bland taste…..ssshhh).